ShelbyGonzalez's Blog

Ten Commandments of Climbing Safety, Pt. 2

Beware of sharp edges. Climbing ropes are incredibly strong, and built to take abuse, but there have been cases of rocks sawing through them. If there is a chance that a rope is going to be moving or weighted across a sharp or highly abrasive rock surface, position an empty pack or a spare fleece between the rope and the rock.

Better yet, bring a sample square of carpet for that specific purpose. It helps to punch a hole in one corner of the carpet and tie a loop of accessory cord through it. This way, you can secure the carpet square to the rope with a carabiner; even if it works loose it won’t blow away.
 
Plan ahead. Before you tackle a climb, particularly one at a new climbing area, you should find out:
•    How you will retreat if a storm blows in
•    Where the nearest medical facilities are
•    How to summon emergency assistance
•    If there are unusual hazards, such as an area of very loose rock, associated with this climb
•    Any other risk-management issues that might apply

Inspect your gear regularly. Retire anything sketchy-looking, past its suggested lifespan, or that might have had its integrity compromised. You entrust your gear (and your partner) with your life every time you climb, so fork over $180 for a new rope after you accidentally spill Drano on the old one. Your life is worth more than that.

Check your gear the same way every time. Develop a routine for checking your and your partner’s harnesses, tie-in knots and belay devices before starting to climb. Go through that routine every single time. Years ago, the British Mountaineering Council came out with a good slogan to help remind climbers how important this is: “Check or deck.”

To “deck”, in climbing parlance, is to fall and hit the ground. Two other colorful euphemisms for the same unfortunate action: “to crater” and “to pancake”. Since, presumably, you don’t want to deck, crater or pancake, check your gear every time.

Don’t panic. Panic never, ever helps a bad situation. Keeping a cool head, on the other hand, can be a lifesaver.

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ShelbyGonzalez
ShelbyGonzalez
 As a young girl growing up in Minnesota, I dreamed of traveling...
Member since: 09/17/07
134 posts
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